Get a ready-made drywall patch. These are available at massive-box residence centers and hardware shops. They use a peel-and-stick, steel-backed patch for added energy.
Screw in two wooden boards behind the drywall, one on the high and one at the backside of the opening. This will keep the patch from falling by. This signifies that for those who select to use a plastic patch, it’s crucial that you be extremely careful in the course of the ending process to keep away from cracking once the mud is dry. Extra surface smoothing is a good suggestion, as you may require less sanding after the installation.
With a putty knife that is 3, 6, or eight inches broad, fully fill the outlet with paste and create a smooth wall surface. For deep holes (over 2 inches deep), layer the filler, making sure each layer is dry earlier than including the following. If you are using filler that dries in 45 minutes, that is how lengthy it’ll take; test the drying time on your label should you’re not sure.
The backing sort will vary fairly a bit, while some kits will give you a bit of fiberglass mesh, others can have you apply a galvanized steel mesh and even plastic. For probably the most part, non-ferrous metals or fiberglass are most popular, as there’s very little probability of them corroding or falling aside over time. Before you start your restore, it is important to know the utility placement in your home. Typically, electric wires are connected to wall studs. Locate the wall studs before you start chopping, drilling or nailing drywall.
Once the patch is in place, apply a skinny layer of drywall compound. Drag the spatula evenly to spread the compound out beyond the patch and over the wall, making an attempt to get a easy taper into the regular wallboard. The patch will cause a tiny bulge on the wall, so it is good to spread the compound over a large space to make this as imperceptible as possible. I recommend holding the spatula at a 30º angle for one of the best outcomes while spreading and smoothing.